A Marshall trip to Northern Ireland

Every year the Marshall Scholars get together for an official trip to either Scotland, Wales, or Northern Ireland (the three countries within the United Kingdom that are less often visited than England). This year the trip would be to Northern Ireland at the end of March for a week of events, meetings, and tours around the country before going south to Ireland.

On the day we arrived we set off on a two hour bus ride up the absolutely beautiful coast of Northern Ireland. The scenery reminded me of the Lost Coast in California, a 50 mile section of coast hidden away in the north that is stunning. At the tip of Northern Ireland we arrived at the Giant's Causeway, a world heritage site and one of the most unique natural landmarks in the world.

Giant's Causeway from the top

 

Legend has it the rock formation in this photo is a camel sleeping, hard to see in the sun.

The coast had been chipped away to reveal all of the layers of rocks.

The causeway itself has a ton of these amazing pillars of natural rocks

The pillars were formed naturally when the lava in this area cooled

Look at me! In front of the Giant's Causeway

We returned from the Giant's Causeway exhausted but ready for a big meal hosted in Belfast, the first city we were staying in. After sitting down at the table all of the Marshall's noticed that there were cards saying we were hosts from "OFMDFMNI," an acronym none of us were familiar with. This turned out to be the Office of the First Minister and Deputy First Minister of Northern Ireland, which was the sponsoring office for our trip and the head of the Northern Ireland Government.

The next day we were off to receive a tour of the new Titanic Exhibit, two weeks before it opened. Belfast, where the Titanic was built, constructed an interactive "Titanic Experience," not to be confused with a Titanic Museum. While not the most exciting exhibit I have seen, for anyone that had a passing interest in Titanic or the movie, it was an awe-inspiring experience.

The Belfast Titanic Exhibit, in a building shaped like 4 Titanic Ships

A recreation of the Titanic Ballroom

After Titanic we moved on to the Parliamentary building in Northern Ireland, with appointments with the speaker of the parliament and the first and deputy first ministers. For anyone unaware, Northern Ireland had long been a place of conflict in the 20th century during the time called "The Troubles." This made Belfast and N. Ireland one of the most dangerous places to be in Europe. On our first night, for instance, we went to a pub across from the Europa Hotel, the most bombed hotel in the world.

In an unprecedented and historic coming together, with some help from the United States, N. Ireland has transformed in the last twenty years to a place of peace and compromised. The First Minister and Deputy First Minister share the head of office of Northern Ireland, and were only two decades ago on opposite sides of the conflict.

We talked with the FM and DFM for about an hour, and the insight into their ability to resolve conflict was amazing. They are actively traveling around the world trying to help resolve other conflicted states, and N. Ireland is quickly becoming the home of conflict resolution studies.

Lobby of the N. Irish parliament

Parliament in N. Ireland

In the afternoon we took a tour around Belfast to see the murals from the different sides of the conflict in Northern Ireland. We also saw the walls that still separate communities in N. Ireland, dividing the catholic and protestant neighborhoods.

Mural on a house in Belfast depicting the Eastern Rising

A 30 foot wall dividing communities in Belfast

After two days in Belfast we drove to the border town of Derry (or LondonDerry). Being on the border, this town has been the host of many instances of conflict during the troubles in N. Ireland. Even today, there are areas in N. Ireland and Derry that are still in conflict, albeit non-violent.

Outside a house in Derry there is a pro-Unionists (protestants) mural

Red, white, and blue painted curbs indicate that this is a protestant neighborhood.

Derry was home to "bloody Sunday" the most famous incident during the troubles in Northern Ireland. Pictures below, on the wall separating communities in Derry, sits the platform where a statue used to sit of a protestant. The IRA blew up the statue, which faced the catholic neighborhoods in defiance.

The platform is all that remains of the statue celebrating the Gov. Walker in Derry

A peaceful mural in Derry.

The Derry peace bridge that connects two communities.

Derry is called LondonDerry by the protestant/unionists and Derry by those on the catholic/nationalist side of the issue. In a meeting with the mayor and mayor's officials in Derry we realized that even now there is a conflict on what name to give the city. Although it seems silly, the issue is one that is very close to home for those in Derry, and the official name of Derry for many events is "Derry LondonDerry," a compromise to keep both sides happy.

After Derry we made our way to Ireland, where we had one more day with the Marshall's there, traveling to the office of the Irish President and British Embassy to hear talks about the issues in Europe financially and what that means to Ireland and the British-Irish relationship. This concluded an amazing learning experience and fun trip with all of the Marshalls.

The beginning of Spring

After visiting Paris mid-February I had a few weeks off from traveling or visitors to focus on laboratory work and my research, as I had to give a laboratory meeting in early March and turn in my half-year progress report. Unfortunately, the sun and nice weather in Cambridge from mid-February through March made working 12 hours a day in a basement laboratory fairly difficult! Nevertheless, my report was submitted on time and the presentation went well, so things still look good for finishing my master's by the end of August.

A view of "Grasshopper Lodge," where I live in Cambridge with a lot of other graduate students.

I'll put up one image from things I do on a daily basis, which is looking at individual neurons in the fruit fly central nervous system during development. You'll see a green alien looking like figure below, but the big circle at the top is the neuron cell body, the green bit coming off the bottom is the axon, and the dendrites of the neuron are the green bits in the middle of the lower purple lines. The purple lines are actually other neurons in the nervous system what we use as landmarks to keep track of how well these motor neurons are developing. This image is from the nerve cord (what would be the spinal cord in humans) that I have dissected out of a fly larva no bigger than the period (or full-stop for the Brits) at the end of this sentence.

Motor neuron in fruit fly.

After a few weeks of uninterrupted work in the lab, I took a weekend trip to visit Katherine in Madrid, now feeling like Madrid is a bit of my second home in Europe. We had a relaxing time there, going to a nearby suburb of Madrid to enjoy Tapas and the scenery. In this small town we found several American-style food restaurants, including multiple 50's style diners throughout the town... more than I have ever seen in the States, funny enough. On another day in Spain Katherine tried her hand at busking (playing music on the street for money) with her violin, and was very successful! I got to stand by and watch as her body guard, since it was her first time playing on the street in Europe, but everything went really well!

Katherine busking in Madrid.

Fitting with the theme of Spring, Madrid was hot, very hot. But Spanish people are used to unbelievably hot summer, so to them 80 degree weather and no clouds is a cold day. Katherine and I got some dirty looks walking around in our T-shirts and shorts from the older Spanish people walking around in full coats despite the heat.

Spring time in Madrid on the river.

Only a week after I visited Katherine she had a few days work off due to a holiday in Spain, so she decided to take advantage of low-priced tickets and have a visit up at Cambridge for a 5 day weekend. We enjoyed walks to Grantchester, where we had tea in the famous orchard tea house. During the rest of the time Katherine relaxed and took a much needed break from speaking Spanish all the time while I worked in the lab and helped out at Cambridge Science Week where we showed off our lab to local children. 

Tea in Grantchester!

Toward the end of March I headed off for a 10 day trip to Northern Ireland and Ireland, with the first 6 days being part of the Marshall Scholars annual trip. I'll be putting up a couple posts on that trip soon, so stay tuned!

A trip to Paris: Part 2

On our second full day in Paris, Saturday, we woke up with a plan to head straight for Notre Dame, one of the most famous sites in Paris. After a few photos outside we wondered in to look at the amazing stained glass windows that could rival the work in the King's College Chapel. 

Inside of Notre Dame

Stained glass in Notre Dame, famous window!

Outside of Notre Dame

After a tour through Notre Dame we walked the five or more miles to the "Basilique du Sacre-Coeur" a famous Church in the just as famous Montmartre district in Paris. What a long walk it was, but certainly worth it and full of strange sights along the way.

Modern art in central Paris.

This statue looks familiar...

Finally, we arrived at the church and what a beautiful sight it was at the top of a hill, which we quickly climbed to get a better view of the city. 

Basilique de Sacre-Coeur

A nice overlook at the Paris skyline!

We began our long walk to the Eiffel tower, another half dozen miles or so, but had to first stop by a bar for some coffee and a little wine. Partly by accident and party by careful planning we stumbled upon the Moulin Rouge theatre.

Moulin Rouge theatre.

We decided to take a metro rather than walk the rest of the way to the Eiffel tower, since it was getting late. On a whim we jumped on a metro heading just south of the Eiffel tower, but close enough for a nice walk. When we got out of the metro we were behind a large building, when we turned the corner we saw the beautiful skyline of the Eiffel tower all lit up, an amazing view.

Overlooking the Eiffel tower at night.

Just before we ascended the tower.

Having seen most of Paris by day from high up places, we decided we would ascend the Eiffel tower at night to see the night skyline of the city. Unfortunately the top of the tower was closed all weekend. We decided to skip the hour-long wait for the elevator and take the stairs, not too difficult a walk. Of course, right as we started to go up it started raining, and didn't stop. Fortunately, two Oregonians were used to that and we had a great time anyway.

From the Eiffel tower.

From half-way up the tower.

Paris from the tower.

Katherine and I on the Eiffel tower.

Katherine on the way to the lowest level of the tower.

The tour of the Eiffel tower ended our Saturday, but we were on our way up in elevation early Sunday with a trip to the top of Notre Dame. I should say, this was the best view in Paris and the most fun event of our weekend.  

Paris from Notre Dame.

Paris from Notre Dame with gargoyle.

A beautiful Sunday in Paris!

What is the gargoyle eating?

Me in front of the bell at Notre Dame

After Notre Dame Katherine and I had lunch before she had to head to the airport, and I stayed after for another four hours to await my train back to London.

View from my walk along the river.

On my way to the train station I went back by the Louvre and along the river, but the most interesting find was stumbling on this famous modern art sculpture in Paris.

Modern art in Paris.

Katherine and I had an amazing time in Paris, and I cannot wait to go back in the future when my parents come for a visit to the United Kingdom in May. I am leaving for Northern Ireland and Ireland soon, spending a few days in Belfast before traveling to Dublin and then Galway on the western coast.

A trip to Paris: Part 1

February 17th was Katherine's birthday, and we decided several months ago that we would take a trip somewhere that weekend. Her choice was Paris. A great choice. Our trip to Paris began the day before her birthday, on last week Thursday. She left from Spain and I took the Eurostar train underground from London to Paris. I would argue traveling in an underground underwater train is the only way to get to Paris, or at least the coolest way to get to Paris. We stayed for three days in a studio apartment of a friend-of-a-friend of Katherine's, a great price and a great location... as we noticed from the view on our first night in the apartment.

View from the first night in the studio we stayed at, look at the sparkling tower!

The next morning Katherine and I woke up and set out to practice our French. "BONE-JORE, PAR LAY VOOZ ON GLAYZ?" We continually said, of course followed by "EXCUZEMUAH." Fortunately everyone we ran into was very nice, and the stereotype about French rudeness to Americans seemed overblown. Our first day plan was to walk to the Eiffel Tower and perhaps see the Arc de Triomphe. We did so much more than that, starting in the morning with coffee and croissants and then a walk down the Seine River through central Paris toward the Eiffel Tower.

Our view in the morning out the window, a great location.

Our sight seeing tour was not planned to say the least, and we happened to walk upon a big building, so we went inside. Only then did we realize, oh wait, Napoleon is buried in here! So we looked through the military relics and continued on our own mission to the Eiffel tower.

The lock your love and throw away the key bridge, as I'd call it.

Where Napoleon is buried, Les Invalides.

French tank.

Katherine and I in front of Les Invalides.

We grabbed a baguette and a bottle of wine and enjoyed a nice picnic in the park next to the Eiffel Tower. What a beautiful place, despite some cloudy weather, to enjoy lunch.

Our lunch spot.

I'm so cool in front of the Eiffel Tower.

We decided since the top of the tower was closed we wouldn't go up during the day, and walked on to the Arc de Triomphe.

Eiffel Tower.

Eiffel tower from across the river.

The Arc de Triomphe is a large Arc situated in the center of the eight busiest streets in Paris. Inside the Arc is the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I and atop is a view of all of Paris.

Tomb of the unknown soldier at Arc de Triomphe.

Me on top of the Arc de Triomphe.

Panoramic view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe.

Katherine turned 23 in Paris.

Arc de Triomphe

After the Arc we toured the Champs Elysees street toward the Louvre, one of the most historic (and expensive) streets in all of Paris. A quick look at the prices (10 euros for coffee) and we continued down toward the Louvre. On our way we stopped to view the Luxor Obelisk, an object from Egypt that is 3,300 years old and was gifted to France in the 19th century.

Luxor Obelisk.

Our tour of Paris continued with a walk toward the Paris Opera House, famous for inspiring the Phantom of the Opera. I must say, I was less aware of the history of this building than Katherine was. Unfortunately, we just missed out on a chance to tour through the Opera House, we'll leave that for another trip.

Opera House

Through careful research, or perhaps dumb luck, we found out that the Louvre, typically an all day event and expensive for non-EU citizens, was free on Friday evenings from 6-9pm. So we decided to stop in for a quick visit... oops. The Louvre is huge, and construction made navigating the Louvre feel like we were on a hidden camera show making fun of tourists. Fortunately we were still able to see all of the top exhibits in the Louvre, but I will need a return trip to the Louvre to really appreciate it.

The famous pyramid above the Louvre entrance.

Inside the pyramid.

Venus de Milo

Mona Lisa, behind a lot of security.

Upside down pyramid.

Louvre at night

Now dark and a little wet, or first day in Paris was not yet over. We had Katherine's birthday dinner in a local French restaurant left to go. We walked home quickly to change, as the apartment was close to the center of the city (next to the Pantheon). Dinner was great, classical French food in a fun environment, complete with a signed poster of Woody Allen.

The Pantheon at night, near where we stayed.

Katherine's birthday (23rd) dinner!

Whew, what a long, busy, and amazing day in Paris. I was really impressed with the city, and although it was not the nicest time to visit (the trees had no leaves and it was rainy), day one showed it was definitely worth the trip.